Vintage Levi’s are one of the most valuable and most faked finds in any thrift store. Here is how to date a pair and spot the keepers.
Check the red Tab first
A capital-E “LEVI’S” on the red tab (the “Big E”) means pre-1971 and is highly collectible. A lowercase “e” is newer. A blank red tab is another vintage signal.
Read the back patch
Leather patches generally predate the paper ones. The care and fabric content printed on the patch also help date the jeans.
Look for selvedge
Flip the cuff. A clean, self-finished seam with a colored line (often red) is selvedge denim, prized by collectors.
Inspect the buttons and rivets
The number stamped on the back of the top button maps to a specific factory and era. Hidden rivets under the back pockets point to older pairs.
Find the care tag and lot number
The style number (501, 505, etc.) and the lot or care tag details narrow down the year and the cut.
Condition still rules
Even a Big E loses value with big holes or a broken zipper. Inspect denim in the light. More tells are in our real-vs-reproduction guide.
See graded denim in our store.